Chitless Foodie: January 2008

Heidi and I enjoy Patpong on our last night in Bangkok.

For Peters, sakes! Not while you are drunk, I was blatantly targeted! She told me the hat made me look pretty, will bring me wealth, health, many children, good luck, keep the evil eye away, and even a rich husband. She probably even told me her Grandma made it and that is made of 100% pure silk, even fire proofed. She complimented me, caressed me gently, made me feel like the prettiest girl in the world, Gosh, she was good. I don't even wear hats! "I have heard it all, and some of this stuff is really funny.

Only if I wasn't so intoxicated, but I fell for her lines. Regardless, it is your $$$, you are in control, give them a fair price. Always, know the price of things. My best line to the sellers is, (and guidebooks warn against this kind of excitement), in my best Texas-Cheerleader act, "Look, I really want this, I LOVED IT! I love your country and this is a perfect remainder of it. This is how much I want to pay, I'm sooo tired of price talk at other shoppes, So, do we have a deal?" and finish it with a big smile. Works like a charm, I want the goods, they want $$$, why all this bargaining back and forth waste of time....Can't never understand those folks.

This hat is so ugly, but it is all good!

All in the name of supporting the local friendly folks and having a bit of fun! Bangkok

Sightseeing Day: Cartagena

As of today I have been travelling for 19 months, have visited over 56 countries and still have 2 more months and 6 countries to go. This was not my original intention. It was only supposed to be a culinary summer trip to Europe that was extended to Morocco, Turkey, and then on to Egypt where it carried over to the Middle East, Africa, and so forth.

The question that most ask is, "How do you do it?" My response is, "I don't do it alone, I have help." Yes, loads of it! Whether it is porters, drivers, guides, friendly local hospitality, or my special personal items that I travel with I'm always at ease everywhere I go. For the most part always happy, and things that frustrate me (such as delayed flights or that tout that just won't go away) I 'let it go' as quickly as possible. Can't have those toxic things around me. I'm in control of me, and I try to take really good care of myself. Further, I know that locals see me as a tourist, a money source, and I have learnt to interact with locals and befriend them to where 'we' know we are doing business together, but at the same time, we are long lost childhood friends. This has probably been the best lesson I have learnt during my travels and has made a world of difference. I have always believe in my heart that while I'm not a local, I'm also not a tourist, just a girl who simply wants to experience the world.

World trekking, while Yes, you are travelling to many exotic destinations, is not at all like taking a normal holiday. "It is living on the road." Just like home you must find a place to sleep, food, activities to keep you busy, but the only different is that on the road since I'm not actively (American salaried) employed therefore, I must budget. Thankfully, many parts of the world are inexpensive for me to fully enjoy. God bless guesthomes and hostels, these allow me to sleep safe at night and enjoy each city to its full potential, and those countries that are so fascinated by the American culture and employ me as an English teacher or welcome a cultural exchange. From experience, living on the road will take a while to get used, too. Especially if you are American. I didn't have a clue about hostels, Lonely Planets, overlanding, never taken a metro (I still have a full Carnet from Paris (my first city) because I was too afraid to take the train by myself). The Parisian concierge, God bless his heart, couldn't stop laughing and took me one day, and it was so much fun. Nothing at all like the movies, where someone is always getting stabbed or robbed on a NYC subway. At first, I was so overwhelmed and things like, no elevators, paper napkins only, horrible food, people intrigued by my 'American accent and looks' (didn't even know there was such a thing, LOL!!!) or even sharing a room was a foreign concept to me. It didn't help that I visited Europe July thru Sep, at the height of tourist season, and the crowds were huge, especially at famous sites. It was often difficult to see the famous site itself, let alone take a decent photo, touts out in full force trying to take advantage of the 'fresh foreign meat' and the service was most of the time unfriendly and slow, because of course, the staffs were exhausted catering to the mass crowds. Well, this is carrying over to 'Culture Shock' and I plan to write about that later, so let's move along.

Many have ask about this as well, "What about money?" My advice, stay away (at least long-term) from Europe or tourist trap destinations, while you can buy a Train Pass and stay hostels, your daily money needs are still a little high because of the exchange rate. Europe was my first destination and I budgeted for Europe not a world trek, so I was lucky to enjoyed it just the way I dreamed about. Also, things that I love to do, sleeping, eating, and going to the spas can be enjoy at minimal cost on the road. Likely daily budgets for other regions, Middle East, 25 USD, Africa 20 USD, S.E. Asia, Thailand, Vietnam, India, Nepal, Cambodia about 15-20 USD, China, I lived there but I think the same, 25 USD, Russia, at least 60 USD, Central Asia, the Stans, 30 USD, Latin America, 20 USD, and Morocco 20 USD. This includes feasting like a queen, guesthouses, daily necessities, i.e. bottled water, cheap transportation, small shopping, but does not include travel transportation, i.e. to another city and expensive sightseeing or souvenirs. This is average, a lot of the times I spend less than 10 USD or other days, when I come across a bookstore, a trendy eatery, go out, or must travel to another city can be as high as 50 USD. Long haul transportation can cost about 12 USD for shared taxis based on 4 people. When I'm alone I bargain for 20 USD, sleeper class trains 16 USD-35 USD, same day domestic flights 60 USD-180 USD, international same day 200 USD- 400 USD, long haul buses 1 USD- 8 USD, city buses >1 USD, average taxi/tuk tuk rides >3 USD, (except EU, Russia, and the Stans). These are the 'true prices' and you must ask for them or else you will end up paying the 'tourist price.' I have seen so many people getting ridiculously overcharge, so always ask around to decide what price you want to pay. Be fair and don't haggle for more than 10 minutes. It's rude.

Prices abroad are quite interesting, there are 3. These are local prices, premium price, and sky high tourist prices. I don't expect to pay the local as I'm happy to help out the street sellers by paying a little more, but I'll never agree to the tourist or even bargain the way 'guidebooks tell you.' It is pointless and now days I'm hearing about 3 times (books say 2x) as much when quoted a price. The best way to shop is to offer them a fair price, give them the money, and about 98% it is accepted, if not, don't worry, Same-Same stuff in countless of shoppes. Always bargain in local currency, doing it in Dollars is a bit deceiving and you will end up paying a lot more, though you can pay in Dollars.

Another trick sellers will use is to ask you what country you are from or where you are staying to 'financially' size you up. I used to tell them Puerto Rico, Which is True! but they have no clue where my country is, and I'll always get, but you sound American, you look American, your English is so good, so after travelling with Heidi who is Canadian and never had any problems, I just tell them I'm Canadian and don't have to deal with the 'rich American' stereotype. Believe me, they won't come down on their price and will tell you things like you are American, you should pay more, America is very rich, blah, blah, blah! Ah! It is so annoying!

Street shoppes sound hard core, but they are not, you just gotta remain lighthearted and empathetic, and it will soon feel like you are 'doing business' with a long lost friend. I have befriended so many sellers and have nothing but respect for (most) of them. Another thing that helps when shopping is to buy everything you need from as few shoppes as possible and remain loyal to them if you are hanging around for a while.

I actively plan my itineraries, and I don't mean a daily task manager, because, "I'm the Queen of Lazy," and it can take me days to leave my hotel upon arrival to a new place, but planning the flow of things. Pacing myself is vital! I believe that hardcore tour-like itineraries will leave you prematurely exhausted and running back home in a few months. I don't follow everything in guidebooks, run to every tourist site the city has to offer, or run around like a bangee with a camera around my neck looking at things through a lense but rather I use my mind. I'm a daydreamer and follow my heart. Yes, I want to see the famous sites as well, but as a matter of fact, I have designated sightseeing days. I only visit things that genuinely interest me, and don't feel pressure to fall into tourist traps. I take a driver/guide (I have horrible navigation sense, I get lost just going to the fresh juice kiosk a block over from my guesthouse) and along with my camera I set to find out what makes these famous spot so fascinating. These days are the most difficult and exhausting, because there is so much pressure to 'see it all' and keep up, but I manage.

The rest of time I'm probably eating, sleeping, watching dvds, or just mixing in with general population. I also keep busy on the road by taking cooking classes, mostly from a local who has graciously offered, volunteering, or learning the local language at a proper school. I love to learn French, Arabic, Swahili, and Mandarin. When I'm visiting a place and for some reason I missed something I really wanted to see or do, either because I was there at the wrong time, weather, etc, I just come back or plan to come in the future. I'm just grateful and try to savour my newly gain experiences rather than chase that 'guidebook recommended itinerary.'

I like to enjoy myself, relax, get to know my surroundings. I enjoy meeting locals as well as other travellers. I often travel with other travellers like myself and have met people that have later joined me in other countries such as Heidi, Lucy, and Ahmed. I'm easily inspired and can stay in a city just a few days, or weeks if I really like it or I can feel motivated and gain momentum and cross multiple countries in a few days or take as many as 7 flights in under 2 weeks. Another question is, "How do you decide where to go?" I do have a world ticket with designated travel dates, but it is per country. In 2006, I visited 35 countries and if I remember correctly I had a little over 20 flight segments. In 2007, I allowed myself more time to do more volunteer projects in each country with the intention of trekking to 25 countries, and I actively purchase domestic and international fares to nearby countries and islands for quick side trips. Fab Fatty and I are always on the go.

Lastly, "Travelling alone, are you worry about your safety?" Yes, Yes, Yes, even in Houston! I would like to think I exercise caution and common sense, but sometimes, things are just beyond your control. Not even 3 weeks ago, I was in Kenya during the riots, and it took me two days to leave Mombasa where my train ride was aborted due to unsafe conditions and later I was unexpectedly driven through rioting mobs on my way to the airport, was in Beirut during the recent bombings, was (almost) robbed by the Russian mob in Moscow, but common sense (and a bit of anger) kicked in, stood up to people who did not have the best intentions for my well being, was sold fake gold in Cairo but was given my money back, had my camera stolen in Goa by my 'driver,' never recovered it, but a small bribe to the Police Chief cost the guy 2 days in jail, and on and on. My ultimate 'FY' to dodgy greedy drivers! I have had to deal with lost luggage, over the summer, 3 times in a row, and but received one bag four days later and another a month later and just now, it took 3 days for Fab Fatty to catch up with me here in Panama. Both time was to dodgy ticket issuing and lately had to deal my travel agent about these tickets, which was very difficult, because I really like them.

All the time, I'm dealing with these kind of nuisances, but I try my best to stand up for myself and find ways to make things work for me, not against me. The most disappointing is not being able to visit a place because of selfish political reason or greedy corruption. This happened in October when I planned to travel to Tibet, all travel permits were ceased when the Dalai Lama was awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor by the US or when I was travelling the Silk Road and most of the travellers I met were getting (faked) fine throughout the Stans. This is a very serious situation, they wanted 900 USD from me, I unwillingly settled on 500 USD and then took it back when they made me dump it in the trash bin (not even man enough to take the dirty money in their own hands) and two guys told me they were 'fine' for 2000 USD at the tourist registar in Kyrgyzstan). Lucky for them, they were able to talk themself out of this horrible situation, but did warned me that they had to 'pay' their way throughout the Stans.

It had already happened to me at the Moscow airport on my way to Tashkent, so I was already aware of this situation. When I arrived at the Tashkent airport I went into the bathroom and taped my money to my inner thigh, and later on I went to the US embassy (the first time I ever had to go and Uzbekistan was my 45th country) where I was enlightened on these 'faked fines' throughout the Stans. Needless to say, after many hassles in Uzbekistan where I was often asked for my 'papers,' mainly from dubious tourist sites 'security guards' (which have no authority to even ask you) trying their luck at a quick buck, I decided not to go on the intended overland Silk Road Route. Some of these guards were so amateur that I would often reply, "I'm Russian, (yeah, in my American voice), I don't need papers," and they would believe me.
After visiting Uzbekistan (which is beautiful and the local hospitality is welcoming) I flew to Kazakhstan, skipped the train to Urumchi (b/c of the fines), and flew straight to Beijing.

For, now, travelling to CIS countries will remain an uncertainty for adventurous spirits as you will have to make risky choices along the way in order to protect yourself. The catch is that when you visit CIS countries you must declare all of your valuables and cash on the Customs form, and if you don't and they see them or have more cash that you write down they can legally confiscate your valuables. Declaring your goods also puts you in a vulnerable position because if you have something they want, then you will be 'fake fine.' This is the reason why I taped my money to my body upon arrival in Tashkent (and later on in Kazakhstan), but be aware that they will leave you alone and you will be free to enter the country hassle free. Leaving the country is trickier. After you cleared customs, you must return the form of your declared goods that you filled out on arrival and also make a new one where both will be scrutinized and leave you vulnerable to 'fake fines.' You will be let go and finally, when you are clearing security to enter the boarding area is where they will pull you aside and accused you of improper paperwork (missing a stamp, a signature, whatever). I was accused of both. They will intimidate you and threaten not to let you board your flight. They will say that you will need to wait until the morning (to see this elusive 'official') and you will be fine so much money. For me it was 900 USD. It doesn't take long to catch on to what is really happening, and now you will vulnerable again, because bribery is illegal and you can then get in real serious trouble attempting to do so. What they want is for you just to give them 900 USD, so that you don't miss your flight and fast cash for them. I didn't want to part with 900 USD (on the road this is probably equivalent to about 3,000 in the US), and finally, after so much 'talk' I just casually asked, "Well, I really need to be in Tashkent in the morning and missing this flight is not an option, is there any way to pay the fine now? Negotiations started and 500 USD it was.

Then things turned weird. When I handed him the money he wouldn't touch it and told me to throw it in the trash bin. I said, "No," and shoved it at him yelling, "take it." He said he couldn't leave the room with it because there were too many people outside and cameras everywhere. Finally, a weakness and it was then that I was reassured that this truly was an illegal shakedown. I told him I was not going to dump it and if he wanted the money to take it. I enjoyed challenging his authority and bullying him the way he bullied me into this 'fake fine.' I happily waved the money in front of his face that he wanted so bad. He was beginning to break and showed signs of embarrasment at times. He would often switch back at forth between flirting with me and saying, "problem, big problem, you will be fine, you will have to pay,"in his Russian accent while he looked at my stamp-happy passport and kept asking me what was I doing in Moscow.

Greed won and he finally took the money and threw it in the trash bin. When I saw him do that my emotions took over and all of the sudden I became angry and tears began to pour down my face and I began to ask him, "Why was he so greedy and how dare he make me go through all this mental anguish for the sake of a buck?" I told him it was my school's tuition (which is true, and the reason I had that much cash on me), and how dared he tarnish all the wonderful Russian memories I had been experiencing for the last 2 weeks. Russia is beautiful, the kids were so cool, the women are drop dead gorgeous, and I did have a great time. I just wanted to shame him for been a bad Russian and using his authoritative position for personal gain. He didn't say anything but I could tell he was listening and felt uncomfortable. I called him a coward and then, I took the money out of the trash bin and ran out of the room. My heart was racing. I still had to go thru security. I know they knew I was a 'shakedown' and I just kept my eyes on the floor. I never looked back and tried my best not to cry and prayed that he wouldn't come after me. My flight was already boarding, so I took my seat and was worried that he would come in the plane and take me away. I just sat there worried to death. After a million years (in my head) the plane finally took off and my fears disappeared. As soon as I could I went to the bathroom and spent most of the flight in there. Then all the sudden, I started to feel 'stupid.' I started to blame myself for acting stupid. Yelling and carrying on and finally grabbing the money and running and then thoughts of a scary Russian prison with guards 100x meaner that him filled my head and how nobody would know where to find me, I just felt completely stupid. For the sake of 500 USD.

Believe me, this was just a reaction to this man just pushing and picking on me for almost an hour for no reason other than greed. I will admit that I do have a spicy side, and he got a good taste of it, nonetheless, he was very intimidating and at times even had me believing that I really did something wrong. My repeated requests to contact the American Embassy were also denied. The trash bin was what sent me over the edge. I worked hard for that money, I just didn't find it laying in a trash bin somewhere, you know. Later on, when I arrived in Tashkent, I just got that eerie feeling and finally accepted what happened in Moscow as the right thing to do and stopped feeling stupid but vowed to be very careful not to get carry away when dealing with corrupted officials.

In Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan I saw many foreigners, mostly Westerners, getting pulled out of lines and taking into the 'little rooms' by these guys. It just saddened me to think that after all the places I have been, that a CIS airport is the most likely place to get robbed and nobody is doing anything to stop them, it is just the way it is, so play their game, and hopefully you don't have much cash on you when you arrive if you don't know about this.

Just 2 weeks ago I almost had a Deja Vu at the Amman airport, and I don't even want to associate Jordan with this because the country and its people are nice, but it is true. After I cleared the entrance security and was waiting to check-in, (I had arrived early and was waiting for the Check-In counter to open), a guard came up to me and asked me to come back to security and have my bag re-scan. I asked, "Why?" He pointed at my carry-on that contained my airline tickets and money and said they needed to look at it again, I told them, No, that 30 minutes had already passed, and that re-scans are to be done immediately. I guess he was a bit shocked that I would boldly say, No, and came back with another guy who claimed it was a security issue, and I just laughed and said, No. They left and no one else approached me. Not sure what that was all about because Jordan is pretty much straight. They have an American Queen and love American visitors. Always stand up to dodgy security, though, don't get carry away. Never give anyone your passport on the streets; always show a copy instead, and remain alert when people are searching your bags and things.

I always listen to my gut feeling. The Silk Road Trip was even for me, bit 'ahead' of the times' as there are few tours that go here. I tried to join one but only 2 other people had signed up and the few remaining were fully book due to Kazakhstan 'newfound' popularity because of the movie Borat. Even local trips were impossible, there are not that many tourist and I had to wing it. All I had was a Lonely Planet dated 1998 and no other recent guidebooks existed (not that I knew of). I couldn't get it in the US, (only on the internet and I didn't allow myself enough time to order it), but luckily I found it at a bookstore in Venezuela. I was soooo happy!!! A Korean guy did have a revised LP from around 2004 in Bukhara, and LP was coming out with a new book in August 2007, which was when I was already travelling. I'm still planning to visit the Old Silk Road Route just like the explorers did by train and land one day.

On using my common sense I never tell others I'm alone. I always tell my drivers that my 'friends' are out trekking, on safari, or visiting some place nearby and will return in a few days. I never tell people where I'm staying and most of the time I get dropped off in a busy area when I'm returning home. Most, of the time that is where the guesthomes are, so it is safe. This is not so much for danger purposes, but to keep 'unwanted friends' away. Also, I never look 'brand new.' Perhaps, I'm not, as this year I'm returning to about 9 countries I visited last year. I never say I'm coming from the Western world, which is true, but as a non local, many locals just assume this. I say which neighbouring country I'm coming from or sometimes if the heat is strong, I mention a village nearby where I'm volunteering and just visiting the 'touristy spot' for a few days. Most, of the time this is true, anyways. When they figured out that you are not dropping in from the Western world looking for overpriced cheap trinkets for your Mother and plan to fly out in a week, their attitudes change dramatically and you will be welcome as a long lost childhood friend, indeed. If you show genuine interest in their culture and things that are meaningful you will have no problems finding a friendly hospitable host. People (including myself) are always proud of their home country and want to make a good impression. I also keep this in mind on how I behave as many times I'm one of the few Americans and even more likely, the only Puerto Rican they have ever met.

Always be aware of your surroundings, this is not the time to be shy. If someone is making you uncomfortable tell them to leave you alone, if they persist, call the 'tourist police.' Tourist police sounds silly, but they are for real and rock! They are not corrupted and speak English and will have you feeling like a Princess in no time. Many places have them and will not tolerate locals harrasing you. Even the 'good guys' will stand up for you, because this affects them if the area gets a bad reputation for overzealous touts or if a tourist was harm. Sometimes, it helps to tip (usually they won't take your money) a cool guy (there are many, I especially like the young guys, they know so much about American culture) to walk around with you and show you the way when you are visiting crowded marketplaces or touristy strips, even if it is just for a few hours. Believe me, this works wonders, as the 'professional lying annoying ones' will stay away from you and you will be able to enjoy yourself more freely.

Funny thing, I started this paragraph with 'be aware of your surroundings' but the photo to the left was taken by Lucy and I never even knew the guy was around me the entire time. I laughed really hard when I saw it. He Rocks!!!! I think this is a decent update for now. I plan to write more in the future, but I'm so busy on the road, so perhaps when I get home next month. Yipeeeee!!! "There is no place like home, There is no place like home!" Cheers for Texas! Until Then, Hugs and Love! //CF